Wainscoting is a classic way to add a touch of elegance and charm to any room. And while beadboard is a popular choice for wainscoting, it’s not the only option out there.
No matter what type of wainscoting you choose, one thing is for sure: the trim is what really ties the whole look together. But how do you trim wainscoting?
Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered. In this article, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about trimming wainscoting, from attaching beadboard to the wall to creating finished edges with returns.
So grab your tools and let’s get started!
How To Trim Wainscoting
Step 1: Attach Beadboard to the Wall
The first step in trimming wainscoting is attaching the beadboard to the wall. Start by using a stud finder to locate and mark the center of each stud along the walls. Then, apply a generous amount of construction adhesive to the back of the first panel and press it against the wall. While holding it in place, use either a nail gun or a hammer and trim nails to nail the panel into the studs. Nail at the top, middle, and bottom of each stud. Continue around the room gluing and nailing one panel at a time. Allow glue to dry overnight before adding molding and baseboards.
Step 2: Create Finished Edges with Returns
If your beadboard ends at a wall about to wrap a corner, then the trim needs to end as well. Because a straight cut on the trim ends with an unfinished edge, give it a finished edge by making a return. Cut off the end of the molding at a 45-degree angle. Cut a 1/4-inch piece of molding from a scrap piece at a 90-degree angle. Turn this piece so the short end is facing the end of the row of molding and its long edge is tucked against the wall. The remaining edge should match the cut on the molding. Glue the return into place for a finished end.
Step 3: Cut Wainscot Pieces to Length
Cut all the wainscot pieces to length using a miter saw. Tom commonly sets his height at 32′′ to 36′′. Using a 4-foot level (or longer), find the floor’s highest point along the wall. At this high spot, place a cut board vertically against the wall and set the level on top so that the bubble is centered in the vial. Pencil a layout line on the wall using the level’s underside as your guide. The top of each beadboard will land on this line. Move the level around the entire room, drawing a continuous layout line.
Step 4: Wrap Trim Around Corners
If you wrap the entire room with beadboard, the trim will naturally die into itself as it moves around the room. If you move around an outside corner, the trim will wrap around it at a 45-degree angle opposite to the one you made for each inside corner.
Choosing The Right Trim For Your Wainscoting
When it comes to choosing the right trim for your wainscoting, there are a few things to consider. First, decide on the style of trim that you want. There are many options available, from simple and understated to ornate and decorative. Choose a style that complements the overall design of your room.
Next, consider the material of the trim. Wood is a popular choice for wainscoting trim, but there are also options made from MDF or PVC. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages, so choose the one that best fits your needs and budget.
Another important factor to consider is the size of the trim. The width and depth of the trim can have a big impact on the overall look of your wainscoting. Thicker trim can create a more dramatic effect, while thinner trim can be more subtle.
Finally, consider the color and finish of the trim. You can choose to paint or stain the trim to match your wainscoting panels, or opt for a contrasting color for a bold look.
Preparing The Wall For Wainscoting Trim
Before you begin trimming wainscoting, it’s important to prepare the wall properly. Start by removing any existing moldings or baseboards using a flat pry bar. Once you’ve removed them, use a stud finder to locate the center of each stud along the walls. Mark the centerline of each stud with a level and extend the marks about an inch above the horizontal chalk line.
Next, attach a horizontal rail to the wall using construction adhesive and nails. This rail will serve as a guide for installing the wainscoting panels. Make sure that the rail is level before allowing the adhesive to dry.
If your wainscoting will include inside corners, you’ll need to decide whether to miter the two pieces of trim or cope them against each other. Mitering is the quickest and easiest option, but coping is considered best practice as it creates a tighter fit. To cope, cut one of the moldings full-length with a square end-cut and then use a coping saw to cut along the profile of the adjacent molding. This will create a perfectly fitted joint.
Finally, if your beadboard ends at a wall about to wrap a corner, you’ll need to create finished edges with returns. Cut off the end of the molding at a 45-degree angle and then cut a 1/4-inch piece of molding from a scrap piece at a 90-degree angle. Glue this piece into place for a finished end.
By properly preparing your walls for wainscoting trim, you’ll ensure that your finished product looks professional and polished.
Measuring And Cutting The Trim Pieces
Measuring and cutting the trim pieces is a crucial step in trimming wainscoting. Begin by measuring the length of each section of the wall where you will be placing the trim. Use a tape measure to ensure accuracy. Take into consideration any corners or angles that will require additional cutting.
Next, using a miter saw, cut the trim pieces to the appropriate length. It’s best to cut all of the left angles first, then spin the miter saw to the other side and cut all of the right angles. This saves time and ensures consistency in the angles.
When cutting trim pieces for corners, it’s important to make sure they fit properly. You can either miter the two pieces of trim to fit against one another in the corner or cut one of the moldings full-length to go into the corner with a square end-cut and then cope the next piece against that one.
If your wainscot installation includes inside corners, you may need to create a finished edge with returns. To do this, cut off the end of the molding at a 45-degree angle and cut a 1/4-inch piece of molding from a scrap piece at a 90-degree angle. Glue this piece into place for a finished end.
Attaching The Trim To The Wainscoting
Now that the beadboard is in place, it’s time to attach the trim to the wainscoting. The basic method for attaching the trim is similar to the one used for paneling. Apply construction adhesive to the back of the piece of trim and fit it to the wall, overlapping the top of the paneling. Use a nail gun or hammer and nail set to attach the chair-rail molding over top of the wainscoting.
Begin by installing the chair rail molding. Cut the chair rail to length and check that the pieces fit properly. Apply a generous bead of construction adhesive on the reverse side of the chair rail molding along its length. Secure it to the wall with small nails. If your wainscot installation includes inside corners, you’ll have a choice about how to cut the chair rail. You can miter the two pieces of chair rail to fit against one another in the corner, which is the easiest and quickest way. Best practice is to cut one of the moldings full-length to go into the corner with a square end-cut and then cope the next chair rail against that one.
Although you can use small finish nails, a nail gun will make the work go faster. It’s likely to be more accurate and will impart less vibration to the wall than a hammer and nail will. All of the vertical pieces of picture molding will be equal in length. To save time, set up a stop on your saw to make sure that all of those vertical pieces will be exactly equal to one another in length.
When it comes to caulking, use a bathroom caulk since it expands/contracts more effectively with varying humidity inside your home. Lay a bead of caulk along gaps and corners, then use a wet cloth to push the caulk down into gaps and create a finished seam. Use the same rag to clean up excess caulk. This will fill gaps and trim out pieces beautifully.
Creating Finished Edges With Returns
Creating finished edges with returns is an important step in trimming wainscoting. When the beadboard ends at a wall about to wrap a corner, the trim needs to end as well. However, a straight cut on the trim will result in an unfinished edge. To give it a finished edge, you can make a return.
To create a return, start by cutting off the end of the molding at a 45-degree angle. Then, cut a 1/4-inch piece of molding from a scrap piece at a 90-degree angle. Turn this piece so that the short end is facing the end of the row of molding and its long edge is tucked against the wall. The remaining edge should match the cut on the molding. Glue the return into place for a finished end.
By creating returns, you can ensure that your wainscoting looks professional and polished. This technique can also be used when wrapping trim around outside corners, as the trim will need to wrap around at a 45-degree angle opposite to the one made for each inside corner.
Remember, taking your time and paying attention to detail is key when trimming wainscoting. With these tips and techniques, you can create beautiful and functional wainscoting that adds character and dimension to any room in your home.
Sanding And Painting The Trim For A Professional Finish
Once the beadboard is installed and the trim is attached, it’s time to sand and paint the trim for a professional finish. Start by hand-sanding all woodwork smooth with fine, 180-grit sandpaper until all shine disappears. Be sure to use a coarser-grit paper, such as 80- to 120-grit, to smooth imperfections such as heavy globs of old paint. If the outside paint layer is gummy, use a “clog-resistant” or “self-lubricating” sandpaper, like 3M’s SandBlaster paper. It has an anti-load coating that keeps the paper from clogging.
Generally, trim is done in semi-gloss paint, or at least satin, making it more difficult to paint over. Save yourself the extra steps of sanding and priming by getting a paint and primer in one. This will save you time and effort in the long run. Apply two coats of top-quality enamel paint to finish the job professionally.
Before painting, place a drop cloth on the floor under the wainscoting you’ll be painting. Tape off the border with the wall and baseboard trim if you’re not painting it the same color and sheen as the wainscoting. The secret to success when you paint raised panel wainscot is in the prep work. The four sides of every wainscot panel are outlined with a piece of trim that you will have to seal with caulk before you paint to prevent unsightly gaps from ruining the looks of the wall.
After sealing with caulk, clean, prime, and sand the wainscot to ensure that the paint adheres properly. Use a high-quality brush or roller to apply two coats of top-quality enamel paint for a professional finish. By following these steps, you can achieve a beautiful and polished look for your wainscoting trim that will last for years to come.